by Lev Elgudin

If you look up the word quaint on dictionary.com, here’s what you’ll find:

quaint

–adjective, -er, -est.

After taking a five day rent-a-car road trip through southern France, I found that the word describes the historical charm of the region perfectly. And, as with all quaint places, a cheap, mapless, hippie-style ride through the side roads is a must.
The drive from Madrid to San Sebastián is about 4 hours with no traffic, which means about 5 hours in real life. Not too long if you’re used to driving longer distances, plus with beautiful sights and a bit of mountain weaving on the way.
But me and my two friends wanted as much southern France time as we could get, so we didn’t stop on the way, and arrived in Donostia (Basque for San Sebastián) at approximately 1 am, just in time to meet a couch surfer (check out couchsurfing.com) who’d agreed to show us the bar scene. It seems like a cool city, certainly a separate future trip altogether. One weird thing about it: in Madrid, we’re used to “chinos” selling beer and food on the street at night; in San Sebastián they sell glow sticks and weird glowing spinning tops for a couple of euros. And no beer. Needless to say, I was distracted for hours.

Wednesday night’s sleep was both one of the most uncomfortable and satisfying of my life. After leaving Donostia at about 3:30 am, we drove out past the border into France just a few kilometres away. We found a quaint little field, off a small, woodsy road, and parked. We had a tent, but it was raining, and we were tired. So we did the logical thing: we slept in the car. As I received a last minute upgrade from Atesa for some unknown Spanish reason, our car was a Citroen C5, which is a relatively large sedan. So we piled our bags in the front two seats, moved them up as far as they went, flattened out the back seats and stretched out on top of our home-brought blankets and pillows with our feet in the trunk. With the three of us, it was a tight squeeze, but a few tokes and some wine had us good and passed out.

When we awoke, we found that our quaint little field was actually someone’s house, and the small woodsy road was actually part of a residential neighbourhood where people wake up early and get to work. By our 10 am wake up time, the street was bustling with activity. It was a holiday too in France, so we were greeted with a lot of weird looks and stares. What would you do if you saw three bleary-eyed strangers emerging from a seemingly abandoned car parked on the grass right next to your house? The didn’t seem to care though, so my respect for the French went up a lot.

The rest of the trip was filled with lots of French food and wine, delicious chocolate croissants, foie gras, and crepes. And lots of other things too. Here are some highlights.
Bordeaux: Le Fiacre sound bar (www.le-fiacre.com) is located near Place Rey-Berland in the centre of town. It’s a “post rock” punk bar which was relatively quiet on this Thursday night, but the bartender said it’s usually packed with locals and regulars. They have a live band in the basement every weekend, and how can you miss a bar that features acts like Pussydelic and Funky Freaks. The highlight of the night was when we started talking to a Parisian visiting the city on holiday. Boy, did he make a lot of hand motions. Lots of weaving and twirling, sometimes using both hands, seemingly unattached to what he was actually saying. Neither his English nor Spanish were very good, but that didn’t matter, his orchestra directing hands didn’t stop. Nice guy though.

Every little town: has a tourism office, and amazingly, from Thursday to Sunday, they were all closed. It’s amazing the Spanish have a worldwide reputation for not working a lot, the French work week is capped at 35 hours.
All small French villages are equipped with cool-looking cathedrals. Every single one.
Highways are crazily expensive, at least by US standards. The drive from Bordeaux to Toulouse is about 2 hours, but it cost 16 euros.
The road you want to be on if you’re not in a hurry is N1113, a side road that gets you from Bordeaux to Toulouse in about 4 hours. It’s filled with off-road fruit stands with delicious strawberries, a million chateaux for wine tasting mostly in the Graves area, and small little quaint villages that are seemingly all the same but somehow different.

On a final and abrupt note, I want to mention a February article in Time magazine (http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1720316,00.html) that states, among other wondrous statistics, 90% of French women over 50 are sexually active. To me, that’s incredible. But after spending some time in the south of France, I saw why. These small little quaint towns, there’s little to do but drink wine, eat foie, and have wild outdoor sex. It’s a beautiful country, I recommend a visit.

by Cynthia Goldman

I never thought I’d be so happy and so sad to leave a foreign, predominantly Muslim country. After being in Istanbul, Turkey for six days for what was originally a school trip, I was finally able to leave the country.

I had realized I lost my passport seconds before loading the bus to the airport. Of course, I panicked. I cried. I had no idea what to do. I asked myself why? How could this happen to me? I was forced to stay another day. Fortunately my brilliant religion professor was kind enough to stay with me. In the end, losing a passport in such an exotic city might’ve happened for the best. It was the most amazing experience I have had in my time studying abroad!

The country of Turkey is in both southeastern Europe and southwestern Asia, bordering the Black Sea. Istanbul is in the northwestern part of the country with a population of at least 10 million people. It is roughly the size of Los Angeles. The ethnic mix is mostly Turkish although it is easy to see a diversity of people and religions. Never in one city had I seen so many Catholic churches, Jewish synagogues and Islamic mosques. Nor women dressed in full-bodied black dresses with veils and gloves walking down the street chatting with their girlfriend in a miniskirt and blue hair.

The city is both modern and ancient. Istanbul was founded way back in 660 BC as Byzantium. In 330 AD, it was renamed Constantinople by Constantine the Great, who made it the capital of the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Empire. In 1204, the city was raided by Crusaders, and then two and a half centuries later it was taken by the Turks. Istanbul was the official name in 1930.

Walking in front of the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmeht square, I couldn’t help but marvel at the beauty of the mosque framed between colourful tulips and clear, sunny skies. And suddenly there’s a call for prayer that adds to the mysticism and beauty. It is absolutely spellbinding!

The grand bazaar is teeming with activity with vendors speaking several languages in attempts to lure customers in there shops. You can find almost anything at the bazaar like gold jewelry and precious stones, colourful lamps, hookahs, and knockoff purses and bags.

Although the vendors could be too much sometimes, I found the Turkish people incredibly warm-hearted. When I was sitting on the hotel floor crying over my lost passport the hotel staff and travel agent were so kind telling me not to worry. Smile. Istanbul wanted me to stay. At the Turkish police station, the officers joked around and offered me apple tea while efficiently writing up my missing passport report. The travel agent who so kindly booked me another flight home and translated everything to English took my professor and me out to dinner.

Dinner was amazing. We ate at vine-covered outdoor restaurant next to a busy little pedestrian street, ancient Ottaman artefacts and a fresh foods market. The owner of the restaurant was so kind to treat us to the most delicious fruits and vegetables with fresh baked bread that was spread with hummus, butter and cheese. Then we ate kebabs with lamb, chicken, beef, rice and yogurt. I would tell you the name of the foods but I don’t speak Turkish and have a horrible memory for names.

In the end, staying an extra day in Turkey may have happened for the best. It was truly a revelational experience to see such a completely different and beautiful culture on my own. I feel that most people would have to witness it to completely understand it. As I got off the plane in Barajas Airport, I felt happy to be “home” and lucky to have gotten my passport. But also lucky to have had such a wonderful taste of Turkey.

by Helen Macrae

As all current and ex-students know, when your loan’s dwindled to nothing and you’re broker than Paul McCartney would be if Heather Mills had got her way, you need to get creative if you want to have fun without spending any money. Although my housemate H and I graduated almost three years ago, we don’t seem to have progressed much beyond the state of penniless students, so, when we found ourselves with nearly a week off work this Easter but barely 10 Euros between us, we had to come up with a plan.

Here are our Madrid top tips for minimum spend and maximum F U N !

1. Retiro it up

Madrid’s number one park is huge, easy to get to and, best of all, completely free. Go on a Sunday and count how many kids you can spot trussed up in their Sunday best after church (double points for any siblings in matching outfits) or have a laugh at all the people sweltering in their rubbish Spiderman/Mickey Mouse costumes. If you really want to blend in with the Madrileños, wear beige or, if you’re feeling fancy, a bit of gold (weekend beige).

2. Snog

While you’re down at the Retiro you might as well do as the Spanish do and have a good old snog. Just grab your partner, find a highly visible park bench and go for it! See how long you can manage without coming up for air, or perhaps try testing how amorous you can get (bonus points for any removal of clothes!) before someone comes over to tell you off/you’re thrown out by park security. If you don’t have a lady or fella to snog, then fear not, just try our next tip which is…

3. Stroll down Calle Lavapies

Take a walk down this street in our favourite barrio and you will more than likely get a few lecherous comments shouted at you by willing suitors. If none of them take your fancy, head into one of the many curry houses instead and see if you can sweet-talk your way into some free poppadums.

4. Explore the dark side

If all the romance is just too much or you’ve recently had an unpleasant break-up and are feeling particularly bitter, head back to the Retiro and annoy some snogging couples by throwing twigs/stones/frozen peas at them. Make sure you’re well-hidden before you start and plan your escape route should things get nasty.

5. Be cultured

Find out when the various art galleries do their freebie days and try to pass for an arty type (beret optional). Since it’s free the place will probably be heaving with both Madrileños and foreigners alike, but while you’re queueing you can play everybody’s favourite game “Guess the nationality” to while away the time.

6. Try the swapsies market

Not technically free, but if you do want to buy something from this market (unlikely) it won’t cost you more than a couple of cents. The stallholders set out their wares (i.e. tat they’ve found in a dustbin) just over the road from Atocha station most days in the early evening, and therein ensues a frenzy of bartering until the police show up and everyone gets moved along.

7. Go Swedish

Hours of fun can be had at IKEA, Sweden’s best export. The easiest one to get to if you don’t have a car (which, let’s face it, is pretty unlikely if you’re skint and if you do you probably don’t have the money to fill it up with petrol anyway) is Madrid Este on Metro Line 1 (Las Suertes). Bring your camera and take a few photos of you and your mates posing in the various home set-ups to send back to the parents (”Look mum, we DO live in a nice tidy flat”) and have fun testing the beds and sofas for comfort. See how long it takes before you are forcibly removed from the premises.

8. Ride the Circle line

Ok, so it’s probably not the most thrilling Saturday night you could have, but it’ll only cost you the price of a Metro ticket, jump on Line 6 and you might meet some new friends!

by Cynthia Goldman 

As only my second time in Europe, I came to Madrid with little to no expectations. Sure, I had lived in New York City for a summer and even Mexico City (my mother´s native city) but it would be difficult to compare such a European city like Madrid to anywhere I had been before.

My first observation would be the obvious mix of the old with the new. Walking around El Retiro (the Spanish equivalent to Central Park except this park used to be the royal gardens) on a Saturday afternoon, its easy to notice trendy Spanish couples walking their dogs, break dancers jumping next to old historical European monuments, elder people lounging on benches eating gelato and little kids playing with boats. Surrounding the old statues and beautiful gardens are bars, restaurants and shops, even fast food chains like McDonalds!

Despite the temptation of a Big Mac, I was excited to try the healthy Mediterranean diet once I got to Spain. I’m originally from Kansas City, famous for its barbecues and steaks and with my Mexican background, I love spices and anything drenched in lime with lots of flavour! But to my dismay, I found the food to be boring and not as nutritious with the exception of paella, chorizo and mixed salads (with olives, tuna, oil and vinegar). Everything else? Bread, meat, potatoes, potatoes, potatoes… and mayo! For all the skinny Spanish women walking around, I was shocked. Perhaps that’s why friends in the past who came back from studying abroad gained an additional “freshman 15″ (as in pounds). They either ate the potatoes and mayo or resorted back to the Big Mac.

Another culprit for the mysterious “freshman 15″ could be the crazy Spanish nightlife. Bars and discotecas often close at 7am! And with all the dancing and drinking, people get hungry. My favorite nights so far have ended with churros and hot chocolate at a chocolatería conveniently located next to Palacio and Joy.

Something you can’t find in North America is the futbol! Or soccer for Americans. I have watched two teams play so far- FC Barcelona and Real Madrid. Although both games were equally amazing experiences, I’m quickly becoming a Real Madrid fanatic. The action, energy, and cute soccer players with talent playing for one of the best teams in Europe (did I mention my great grandfather was madrileño?)… what’s not to love?

For anyone who loves art and royal history like me, Madrid is heaven! I’m taking a Modern Arts of Spain course at school where I study Goya, Velázquez, Dalí, among others. Once we finish studying their work in class, we just hop on a metro and go to any one of the art musuems and see the real things! Not to mention, Madrid is a masterpiece in itself with its old architecture and monuments unlike anything I’ve ever seen back home.

The Spanish are very lucky to have a lifestyle where they can enjoy all of their perks, although it may be annoying to Americans. In America, everything is ‘go, go, go!’ In Spain, businesses usually open at 10, close from 2 to 4 for siesta, and either stay closed or reopen till 8 or so. Servers take longer to serve food at restaurants and cafes because dining is seen as a pleasant pastime. Light a cigarette (which MOST do), sip on a cafe con leche and chat with a friend: it seems that sometimes there are just no worries.

This weekend I’m planning on shopping and going to the Rastro, which I have yet to go to. I can’t wait to check out boots and palestina scarves! And who knows what other surprises I’ll find.

If you can get by all the smoking, bland food, annoying hours and rude people (although my Spanish teacher insists it’s part of the culture- the Spanish are simply upfront), Madrid is an amazing place to live. When I leave Madrid in May, I can honestly say that I have learned and experienced so much. In a nutshell, I’d say Madrid is a mix between Mexico City and New York City but with that extra European flair that made me fall in love with the city.

by Chris Read

Only two months late - not bad for Spain! The new high speed AVE rail service between Madrid and Barcelona will open to passengers on 20th February, the day before the electoral campaign officially starts for the national poll on 9th March, and two months after the originally-planned inauguration date, 21st December last year. The Development Minister, Magdalena Álvarez, gave the news after a meeting in Barcelona on Tuesday with the President of the Generalitat de Cataluña, José Montilla.

Tickets will be available to by from the 14th Feb via the Renfe website, with further details and pricing coming out soon.

The first AVE high speed pulled up into Barcelona’s Sants station last Friday morning as part of testing on the new line. It was an eight-wagon Siemens S-103, the train which will be in service on the route.