by Michael Kaeflein

“Hash!” hisses the man. This is Retiro park and it’s a lazy Sunday afternoon. I am nailed to the spot, wondering if I have heard right. “Hash!”, this time more urgently. Yes, this man is trying to sell me soft drugs in the middle of what is arguably Madrid’s most famous park. Talk about a downer, I came to the park to get away from it all, not to take part in shady drug dealings.

Hash or ‘chocolate’ as it is known in Madrid, is in my experience, as ubiquitous as the botellón and as popular as fútbol. Let´s cast a retrospective eye over my encounters with this substance in the past year and a half.

Upwards of sixty percent of the house parties that I have been to, of the lines outside concerts, bars and discos that I have stood in, have had the distinct smell of hash wafting over affairs. On countless occasions I have smelt hash in the streets, sometimes so strongly that I feel that I am back in Amsterdam! One of my flatmates has seen, on several occasions, people on their way to work having a sneaky joint, before they begin what is likely to be a surrealistic day of work.

One of the free daily newspapers reported a few years back that Spanish teenagers consider smoking hash less harmful than cigarettes. The Spanish authorities are trying to change imagine of hash as a ’soft drug’. Police in Barcelona last year began imposing 200 euro fines on people smoking hash and marijuana in the streets.
After countless visits to Retiro park I must have been propositioned by most of the hash dealers in Madrid. That’s quite honestly, why I now prefer to go to Casa de Campo!

by Sima Kalmens

The day draws near, very near. On October 2—this Friday—the International Olympics Committee will announce the host city of the 2016 Summer Olympics.

I look forward to the Olympic Games, summer and winter, biennially, but the 2016 bid is particularly important and exciting. Two of the bids are Chicago and Madrid (I actually had no idea what the other two bids were until I snuck a peak at Wikipedia, answer to all questions).

I am a bred Chicagoan, having lived there for the last sixteen years. I use linguistic aberrations such as pop when talking about soft drinks and some people pick up on my Midwest accent. So the prospect of the Olympics being held fifteen minutes away from my house (everything is 15 minutes away in Chicago) is horribly exciting. To think! No airfare, no hotel fare. Just gas money, horrible traffic, and time wasted trying to find parking.

What makes the bid even more interesting than the possibility of the Olympic Games in Chicago, is the fact that the other bid city, Madrid, is my current place of residence. Therefore, I cannot help but take part of the festivities. I consider it cultural immersion, not betrayal.

On Sunday, I attended the candidature celebration at La Plaza de Cibeles and contributed to the human mosaic of Madrid’s Olympic logo:

This is the aerial view of the incredible human mosaic, which thousands of madrileños assisted in making:

While it is entertaining being part of Madrid’s Olympic pride, my corazonada is for Chicago, because, well, I don’t need a $1,000 ticket to get there.

by Sima Kalmens

I am probably one of the few people in Madrid who did not take full advantage of La Noche en Blanco this past Saturday. That does not go to say, however, that I did not take part in the festivities. I did. I put myself right in the middle of the action on the stretch of Calle Alcalá between La Plaza de Cibeles and La Puerta del Sol, where it was difficult to stop moving even for a moment to take a picture.

Having been in Madrid for only a week and a half, La Noche en Blanco was, in a way, sprung on me. I found out about it the Thursday before and although I read about it, heard about it, and talked about it, I was still not sure exactly what it was until Saturday night when I exited the restaurant where I had eaten dinner and found myself among throngs of people walking this way and that.

First stop: Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. Being in an art museum at 23:00 is certainly not something I have ever done before. Exciting would not be the exact word I would use to describe this event, but for lack of a better word, it was exciting. I spent a large chunk of time in the museum courtyard/garden. Although there were other visitors strolling down the gravel paths, the dark shadows cast by the trees at midnight and the misty yellow lights created a very private ambiance. And there was this outside (I did not go inside because the line was too long):

Second stop: the migration from La Reina Sofia to La Plaza de Cibeles via the tiny streets in between (not quite a stop). It was packed. I lingered to look at some street vendor items, but too much lingering seemed to make people impatient, so I floated on. On the way, I noticed some interesting bars and cafés. For future reference, I suppose.

Third stop: La Plaza de Cibeles. In front of the behemoth of intricacy that is the Palacio de Comunicaciones, there was a ginormous screen playing a hip-hop dance lesson. I found it more interesting to observe others struggling with the choreography than dancing myself, although I am sure that my own moves would have been severely entertaining for others as well.

Fourth stop: the walk down Calle Alcalá (also not a stop). The view of the illuminated buildings and signs was incredible. Unfortunately, my probably obsolete camera did not do the scene justice:

On the walk down Calle Alcalá, I learned that sostenibilidad is not defined in the dictionary. I even got to write my own definition of the word (among many others’)!

The next day, I heard about a gazillion other events that I could have attended, but as I was not in the mood for metro hopping all night, I was content with my evening and my first taste of La Noche en Blanco.

by Sima Kalmens

I arrived in Spain from the United States last week with the awareness of cultural differences seated somewhere in the back rows of my mind. The rest of the seating area was densely occupied by my excitement. I was finally in Madrid!

Conveniently forgetting all the Spanish I know as soon as one of the Barajas employees asked me something, I incoherently mumbled something along the lines of es bueno while lugging my stuffed suitcases towards the row of taxis. As soon as I got into a taxi, I realized that I was completely clueless as to how tipping works in Spain; this preoccupied me for the entire 30-minute ride. I knew that tipping is not as big a deal in Europe as it is in the United States, but that was the extent of my knowledge. How much less of a big deal is it? What if I undertip and the taxi driver hates me? I realized I didn’t even know how to say “keep the change.”

The total came out to 34E. I decided it would be acceptable to round up, so I gave the driver 40E. To my confusion, I got 6E back in change. Apparently, expecting the driver to keep the extra 6E as a tip was a purely American thought, one that has not yet crossed the Atlantic Ocean.

Although I must admit that it is considerably easier not to have to fiddle around with a pencil after receiving the check at dinner, trying to figure out the tip (basic arithmetic is not one of my fortes), the odd feeling of leaving only 50 cents or so still remains. Which brings me to another point.

I am simply not accustomed to change being worth anything. In the United States, change is petty money. People often forget they even have any. Here in Europe, clanking change has more variety than anything with the word variety in it. There is a 2E coin, a 1E coin, 50 cents, 20 cents, 2 cents, and 1 cent. Seeing the number two on American money is rare, with the exception of $20 bills and quarters (25 cents), of course. A $2 bill in the US is ooh-d and ahh-d over, and kept as a collector’s item, while 50 cent coins are rare and 2 cent coins are virtually unheard of. So you can imagine my unrest when I leave a restaurant table adorned with a huge pile of coins; in the US it is considered disrespectful.

Cab fares and restaurant tips aside, in the past week I have come to the realization that the metro is a prime location for cultural observation. While it is not necessarily the corazón of Madrid life, it is nevertheless a bustling center of people coming, going, and interacting. Greetings aren’t hugs or macho slaps on the back. Quite the contrary; they’re docile kisses on the cheek full of cariño or hearty handshakes.

The madrileños seem genuinely interested in each other, a refreshing change from American indifference, where the phrase “how are you?” is usually a mere equivalent of “hello” and the speaker does not stop to hear the answer. Having gotten lost more times in the past week than I would care to admit, I have gotten in the habit of asking fellow pedestrians for directions and have discovered that they are more than happy to ensure that I reach my destination, even if they themselves cannot offer adequate directions.

I could get used to this.

by Isaure Cointreau

For the fiftieth anniversary the bi-annual Cibeles Fashion week will stage once again Spain’s greatest designers. Between the 18th and the 22nd the show will be on at the Feria de Madrid while a special edition of the show will be presented to mark the 25th year of the event.

The IFEMA will be showing off some new features launching and promoting Spanish Fashion as a whole. While announcing the return of Adolfo Dominguez and Roberto Verino on the Madrid catwalk, could there be more? The Cibeles stage will be awaiting the work of fifty six designers, and to that number we would have to add another thirty five who will present their collection in the EL EGO showroom featuring direct sales to the public.

However on the 21st the Feria will pay a huge tribute to a great Spanish fashion master Elio Berhanyer, who just celebrated his eightieth birthday this year. This September edition will also fire the most outstanding Spanish models such as Tammy, Natalia lopez, Esmeralda Martin and Irene Jimenez.

An event to look forward to.

by Isaure Cointreau

From now on until the 30th of October the Casa Asia of Madrid has inaugurated a fabulous exhibition portraying China from its early communist years until now. Through a brilliant selection of photos and documentaries China will have no secrets for you.

The history of this country is one that the world has forgotten to acknowledge stopping at the red flag and leaving a shadow behind it. However the Casa Asia sheds some light upon the subject throughout a short but very well laid out exhibit.

All that is presented can be seen as a real archive or document that retraces what has happened, what was there and who were these people who fought for an ideal, linking the past to the present. It is about the story of a country and the people behind it, who have now become authentic symbols of history. Although it is a long tryptique, I would recommend any visitor to sit in the leather couches and watch the documentary that is showing.

The pictures have been collected during four years of research by the curator Liu Heungshing. The aim of the exhibition is therefore to document through shots, either of private or public life, the grand political moments of China from 1949 to 2008.

by Isaure Cointreau

La Noche en Blanco’s fourth edition is a night everyone can be looking forward to. From 9 O’clock PM to the very early hour of 7 AM Madrid will be filled with music, theatre representations and art exhibits. On one night the day will see no end giving you no reason whatsoever to go to sleep.

This concept of gathering people around the arts through different genres of activities and entertainment is spreading throughout Europe as the white night has been adopted in several capital cities such as Paris, Rome, Brussels, Riga and Bucharest.

As a public and completely free of charge Festival, one can expect Madrid to steel New York’s appellation for a night as in the “city that never sleeps”. Around a million and a half are expected to walk down the capital’s street so prepare yourself to have a good time on the town.

There will be 295 performing artists participating at 172 different activities following one central theme of “the gift”. The center will be overthrowned by the festival’s lights and leisure around locations such as Tirso de Molina, Plaza de Chamberi and el Rio Manzanares . However one has to be aware of the fact that the activities have been divided into four zones. Center, North, South and College perimeter are where they are spread out so check out the shows that will take over you neighborhood.

On the 19th of September prepare yourself for a night trip you will never forget. Sharing Art and contempory performances with Madrilenians, what else?

by Isaure Cointreau

A little science if you please?
Celebrating the scientist’s bicentenary, as well as the 150th anniversary of the publication of the once most outraging book ‘The origin of species’, the Museo Nacional de Ciencias Naturales is having from now on until next January an exhibition on the work of Charles Darwin.

Shedding some light upon the life on earth and therefore reestablishing truth upon our knowledge of nature, genetics and human history, Darwin published a theory he knew would feel as a revolutionary earthquake. As Copernico discovered earth was not the center of the universe, Darwin discovered that we were all animals and every living thing was once somewhat related. Adam and Eve were there dethroned from their explanatory position upon the subject of the human race, and genetics made their way.

Today we all know that our cousins are monkeys and that worldwide we are one big family, however lets not forget that the one responsible for this understanding is Mr Darwin himself. Another fact that he had proven during his career was that of the natural selection. Only the strongest would survive.

The exhition illustrates the life of this geologist, naturalist, and thinker of the 19th century, throughout which we can find parallels to other scientists. Therefore the exhibit is organized into four main sections as in the historical scientific context, Darwin’s precursors, Darwin’s history and discoveries, and Darwinism in Spain. A rich program for a well displayed show of explanations upon the evolution of nature and life on Earth.
This is one not to miss.

by Isaure Cointreau

It is five o’clock and we are inside the Teatro Real waiting for the last minute tickets to be sold. People are all anxious to see if they will or not be having a seat for tonight’s show, sitting in the hallway for the ticket office to open. At ten past five the fist couple to be served appears a grin on their face and say:” there is only one ticket left” while taking their leave. All the rest of us stay motionless and hope for the best. The file continues to move and it seems that our fear was just a joke. Let they be damned!

When our turn arrives, the cashier attends to our demand. We want the best for the best price. What is there left? She simply answers, pointing at a map of the theatre our seats: first row, first flour. My friend and I can’t believe it and we gaze at each other performing a kangaroo dance while smiling hysterically. For eight euros (instead of ninety-eight) we will be watching Mozart’s masterpiece, the marriage of Figaro.
After a little run in order to exchange shorts with dresses, trainers with pumps, we were off to La Latina.

Looking for a little piece of quiet in the city, the main idea was to go Plaza Paja. However on the way over there, out of the blue came what we were looking for. Walking down the C/ de la Pasa, a beautiful little plaza came just on to our left. Silence, shade and a café were happily presenting us to a table. Children running around and the wind blowing in the trees’s branches, what a wonder!

Although we would have stayed longer, after a short coffee break in order to refuel as to attend the four hour performance, we were off to the Opera House. The show started at seven O’clock sharp and a few minutes before that we were kindly conducted to our seats. If only our neighbors had known how we got those tickets, they would have screamed for scandal. We just felt very lucky.
This Opera was based on Beaumarchais’s work that goes by the same name. W.A. Mozart had written it for the Austrian court and although the Emperor yawned throughout the first performance in 1786, it is nowadays part of the timeless classic masterpieces.

This is a wonderfully entertaining opera-buffa, as in being of a comical character and sung from the beginning until the end. The ouverture is very famous for its presto (rapid rhythm) and any one would recognize it instantly. However, the magnificent performance of the orchestra is a wonderful introduction to the show and sets you on the right tempo to enjoy what goes behind the curtain. While the blinds are lifted up from the stage, Figaro and his betrothed, Susanna, are the first protagonists to meet with the audience. Through magnificent vocalisms they sing their happiness upon the upcoming wedding and their future projects. However, while he his counting inches as to calculate where to put the nuptial bed, Susanna on her part doesn’t want to live in this room as it is too close to the master’s quarters, afraid she would have to bear his frivolous virtue.

The production was fantastic from the beginning until the end. Not one minute had I thought I would be better off elsewhere. I was like a sponge trying to remember every detail, sound, image and rhythm. However, adding to this I can promise you laughter is also part of the emotions the show will inspire you.
A few things stoke me as extraordinary modern, witty and delightful. While the vocals were going on, some of the themes or topics would be winked at by the production. When Figaro cried his love he suspected of being unfaithful, he blamed all women: “Look at them, women, who torture our hearts…” the lights inside the Opera were then turned on, inviting the audience to look at women in the public. Another time during the garden rendez-vous between the count and the countess in disguise, a delicate flower perfume was to be sent in the whole theatre, and the spectator would once more feel as if being part of the show.

The sets were beautifully made and various. I would have gladly stopped time and try to depict it with some aquarelle paint. The décor were all put together as to help the public imagine and feel closer to the story, and in that purpose details were not neglected. Gardens, palace rooms and chambers, everything was superb, as if they were all composed as a painting by Francois Boucher. However, though I don’t despise minimalism at all it is sometimes nicer to see a good set on stage.

My only regret that night was that apart from witnessing the splendor of Mozart’s gift for music and the talent of those performing before me, it would only last the time of the show, and when the lights would fire up again it would all be part of the past, as if it where only a dream. Though what a wonderful dream it was.

by Isaure Cointreau

The 13th of May the San Miguel market reopened its doors to the public. After years of refurbishing it has become a gourmet center where gastronomy it top notch. What a fantastic place, it was worth the wait. Not only is it a market but it combines as well the function of a bar and tavern, though all in style.

The Iron architecture of the place make you think of Charlie Chaplin and its Modern Times, however through this wink to an industrial era it apparently was designed as inspired by Les Halles de Paris. Although it relates to the French 1900 market’s style it was revisited as to suit the southern culture and rhythm.

The ceramics that can be found all around the ceiling recall the precious Sevillan azulejos and the variety of products on offer present only the best of Spain. Because the Calor is part of the culture, the fans and water sprays have not been forgotten and that for the very pleasure of its customers. The composition of the building has been well thought through as to prevent from the heat to invade the market, that’ll explain the wide glass composition. Although it does underline the apparent refurbishing of the place the crystalline walls actually add to its charms a little modernity. Therefore like an oasis in the Madrilenian summer everything has been put together to prevent you from melting while shopping or enjoying your wine and tapas.

Have your pick there is everything one would wish for such as oysters, fish, sweets, bread and wine. Everything looks delicious and ready to go. It however has nothing to do with your local Dia as your wallet would say, though you’ll find there wonders. Bringing to you the sea side gustative pleasures and as many kinds of Vermouth you would ever dream of, let’s say it is a little piece of paradise for any mouth to fill. As much variety of cheese a British could ever dream of, as many fantastic breads and pastries that would make any Frenchmen jealous, everything is brought to you on a silver platter.

A few days ago I wanted to try it myself with a group of friends. The center of the market has been arranged as a sitting area, with tables and tall stools, where people can enjoy their drink until midnight. Having a seat we were amazed how the place had chic written all over it. Every architectural and design detail is a pleasure to the eye, and the people all well dressed with poise and smiles give to the market a very soothing ambiance. However be prepared to sip slowly your wine as it can get pricy.

At midnight a bell will ring and a voice will notify you of the closing doors, though no one will actually push you out right away. Hanging out a little longer, we witnessed the cleaning up and the closing of the little stands. At some point, the venders and the waiters were moving from one shop to the other as if bearing gifts. They in fact had put away on a tray some leftovers and were sharing them with the others.

While we were about to leave, the bakery had put a selection of croissants and brioches on the winery stand. Our eyes saw them gleaming in the light and while people were hanging out with the shopkeeper, we stopped by. Chatting a little bit with the group, we found out that they were all good friends and that the exchange of Oysters, sweets and pastries happened often has it would otherwise be wasted, thrown in the trash. Wouldn’t it be terrible to see such delicious things not appreciated by anyone? Seeing that our stomachs were speaking for themselves through our passive leering at the tray, they offered us to take whatever we wanted. Grateful and thrilled to see our wish fulfilled, we left only a half hour later. We were the last customers and even the doors didn’t want to let us out, was that a sign? However we left then and plan to come back pretty soon.