Posts Tagged ‘Cave Diving’

Darling it’s better under the sea

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

by Stuart Yochem

As an avid scuba diver, I didn’t expect that Spain would be considered a destination for other divers like me. It seems that I couldn’t have been more wrong! For the past days, I’ve been researching different dive sites along the Spanish coast, and the variety and multitude of caves, wrecks, and reefs is astounding. So I began to map out a Mediterranean diving trip (which I shall take sometime in the future when my bank account is a little more promising), using Spain as my go to country. For those of you pondering summer plans, sinking into the Med for two weeks may turn out to be your most thrilling adventure yet!

In order to make the trip more orderly and less costly, I decided to start this adventure off the Southern coast, in the Canary Islands.

Location 1: La Palma, 2 days

The greatest thing about the Canaries is that although they are an island chain, each island has its own, distinct personality.

La Palma, one of the westernmost islands of the seven Canaries, is a volcanic ocean island and can also be referred to as la Isla de las Palmas (the island of palms). Destination #1: The Crosses of Malpique, located at the island’s southernmost tip. In 1570, 40 Jesuit missionaries came to Puerto Tazacorte with their ship and though they were hopeful to evade turmoil, French Pirates captured and killed all 40 on board. In 2000, 40 stone crosses were lowered into the sea in memory of the missionaries, and the reef was named for them. Natives believe that the crosses could soothe the ocean. Maybe this dive will leave you feeling soothed as well…

After taking in a bit of history under the sea style, take advantage of your time left on the island, acclaimed by many for its unspoiled, natural beauty and for its lack of tourism. Take a walk through the incredibly lush Caldera de Taburiente National Park. Afterwards, you should check out the Roque de los Muchachos Astrophysics Observatory, which contains international telescopes spanning 2 km!

Location 2: Tenerife, 4 days

Upon arrival to Tenerife, it’s most likely that you won’t get in a full day of diving so better to explore the island. Tenerife is the largest of the Canaries and boasts both the highest mountain in Spain, El Teide, as well as the world’s 3rd largest volcano!

On your second day, let the diving begin. For those of you who suffer from claustrophobia or are afraid of the dark (which under the sea can bring out a whole new dimension of darkness, as I learned in a past experience that will remain unmentioned), you may want to skip these dives. Yes folks, cave diving. Ali Barbars Cave, located 15 minutes outside of the harbor, will be a feast for the senses. The entrance to the cave is covered in black coral taking on the appearance of Christmas tree branches. Once inside, torches on, spectacular colors will jump out at you. As you exit, take a look behind you as a diver with a sense of humor has set up a nativity scene at the back of the cave.

Next stop, Palm Mar Caves, where a complete wall of moray eel, sedentary organisms, lobster and barracuda swim in and out of dark crevices. Also, catch a glimpse at the cave’s Jacques Cousteau statue, located next to the sea wall. Finish out your day with stops at dive sites The Steps and Shark Cave.

Jacques Cousteau

Day three will be filled with reefs, fish, reefs, and more fish. Radazul, Tenerife is home to three thrilling sites: Devil’s Reef, the Wall and Grouper’s Cave. The Wall, located on a vertical sea wall, (hints the name, “the wall”) is a favorite among scuba lovers. Close by is Grouper’s Cave, where at the end of the reef is a cave inhabiting a large, friendly Grouper. After befriending this famous fish, boat on over to La Nea Beach where you can spend the rest of your day relaxing with a cocktail.

Your final morning will take you to Stingray Bay, where you will find a sunken fishing boat, loads of friendly rays and if you’re lucky, turtles! On your way to the next site, Carbonero, keep your eyes open for jumping dolphins. Finish your day at the nearby Las Teresitas beach and reminisce all of your underwater escapades.  At this point, you and Sebastian the crab will most certainly be on the same page… life IS better under the sea.

Location 3: Fuerteventura, 1 day

Before bidding farewell to the Canaries, make one last stop at Fuerteventura. Veril Grande is a small reef where creatures, including a meadow of garden eels as well as stingray, barracuda and angel shark lurk in the sand. Next stops the Pyramid and the Labrynth. The Labrynth has a wild seascape that always surprises visitors as well as a plethora of sea life. If you’re lucky, you may spot a hammerhead. Last dive of the day, El Portal, where conditions are ideal for larger fish such as Tuna and sometimes even Whale Shark! What a way to end your day.

Location 4: Marbella and San Pedro de Alcántara, Costa del Sur, 2 days

Marbella, situated within the Malaga province, is known for its ritzy appeal and glamorous residents, which have included Sean Connery, Antonio Banderas and Joan Collins. This all began in 1940, when Prince Max Egon zu Hohenlohe-Langenburg and his heir Alfonso de Hohenlohe were experiencing car troubles in the town. What a hassle it must have been to have a broken down Rolls Royce in an undiscovered island paradise. Alfonso fell in love with the beautiful town and began to market it as a tourist destination, magnetizing the rich and famous. Marbella’s lap of luxury is not confined to its town, but extends into the ocean where underwater life will be equally if not more exciting than marveling at celebrities.

Start off the morning at Marbella Towers. Close to the towers is Barco Antiguo (antique ship), where a ship, called the Galeon by natives, takes up a whopping 70 meters! It seems that the majority of Coata del Sol’s underwater creatures prefer to spend their time here. Finish your day at the Marbella Wrecks and then head back to shore for a night in this posh paradise.

Your second day will take you to the town of San Pedro de Alcántara. Placer de las Bovedas, listed as one of the top ten dive sites in Spain, is a gigantic reef, 1 km long and 500 meters wide where deep dives are guaranteed. Fishing is rare in this area, so chances that you will see bigger fish are very likely! Bovedas is very rocky and has beautiful canons, valleys, walls and overhanging rocks leaving divers wanting more. One thing to be cautious about is the current- the reef is located in the open sea, very close to the Strait of Gibraltar and the Atlantic Ocean.

Location 5: Las Islas Hormigas, 1 day

On your way up the Spanish coast, spend a day at las Islas Hormigas, located just off the coast near Cabo de Palos. The islands are known for having the best-preserved and most varied marine reserves. Here, you can find old wrecks from 1886 to 1903, submerged mountains, and diverse sea life. The reserve itself has four dive sites, Bajo de Testa, Piles 1, Piles 2 and Bajo de Dentro (which has a large, swim through cavern). All are sure to impress!

Location 6: Mallorca, 4 days

Hopefully, this last designated stop won’t leave you feeling too disappointed. This island getaway, where an abundance of renowned Spaniards have made and continue to make their homes, is located in the Balearic Islands. The astounding sights, the beautiful beaches, the delectable cuisine and the great nightlife will try its best to distract you. Remember why you came though! The diving in Mallorca will surely match if not outdo the pork loin.

On day one, head to Santa Ponsa, where off the coast you will come across islands Malgrats and El Toro. Both islands are surrounded by marine reserves with a spectacular array of barracuda, iridescent blue fish, goatfish and seabream, whose scales catch the sunlight as they feast on sea urchins. The structure of the seabed and surrounding sea walls is out of this world and may well convince you that nature had a keen architectural force behind it.

On day two, The Madonna Cave will be waiting for you. The dive starts as you descend into the cave’s mouth. At the bottom of the cave, torches on, you will find a Madonna statue. There is plenty of room to swim around the cave as well as two air pockets if you’re in need of a break. You may come across a conger eel, a resident of the cave who is spotted on certain occasions. As you exit, be sure to catch a glimpse at the lit up cavern behind you, and just before the cave ceiling, you will notice a hazy shimmer that signifies where fresh and salt water meets.

These last two days will be yours to use as you please. Mallorca is a fantastic place to spend time, above or under water!

As your trip comes to an end, keep all of your encounters in mind… you had a religious experience in underwater La Palma, enjoyed a lovely Christmas, made friends with a grouper and met a world renowned explorer in Tenerife, lived in the lap of luxury in Marbella, came across some historical ship wrecks in Las Islas Hormigas, plus you saw the Madonna and the best of the Med’s underwater designs in Mallorca. What a whirlwind. I think that Mr. Cousteau summed it up pretty nicely…  ”The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.”