by Isaure Cointreau

It is five o’clock and we are inside the Teatro Real waiting for the last minute tickets to be sold. People are all anxious to see if they will or not be having a seat for tonight’s show, sitting in the hallway for the ticket office to open. At ten past five the fist couple to be served appears a grin on their face and say:” there is only one ticket left” while taking their leave. All the rest of us stay motionless and hope for the best. The file continues to move and it seems that our fear was just a joke. Let they be damned!

When our turn arrives, the cashier attends to our demand. We want the best for the best price. What is there left? She simply answers, pointing at a map of the theatre our seats: first row, first flour. My friend and I can’t believe it and we gaze at each other performing a kangaroo dance while smiling hysterically. For eight euros (instead of ninety-eight) we will be watching Mozart’s masterpiece, the marriage of Figaro.
After a little run in order to exchange shorts with dresses, trainers with pumps, we were off to La Latina.

Looking for a little piece of quiet in the city, the main idea was to go Plaza Paja. However on the way over there, out of the blue came what we were looking for. Walking down the C/ de la Pasa, a beautiful little plaza came just on to our left. Silence, shade and a café were happily presenting us to a table. Children running around and the wind blowing in the trees’s branches, what a wonder!

Although we would have stayed longer, after a short coffee break in order to refuel as to attend the four hour performance, we were off to the Opera House. The show started at seven O’clock sharp and a few minutes before that we were kindly conducted to our seats. If only our neighbors had known how we got those tickets, they would have screamed for scandal. We just felt very lucky.
This Opera was based on Beaumarchais’s work that goes by the same name. W.A. Mozart had written it for the Austrian court and although the Emperor yawned throughout the first performance in 1786, it is nowadays part of the timeless classic masterpieces.

This is a wonderfully entertaining opera-buffa, as in being of a comical character and sung from the beginning until the end. The ouverture is very famous for its presto (rapid rhythm) and any one would recognize it instantly. However, the magnificent performance of the orchestra is a wonderful introduction to the show and sets you on the right tempo to enjoy what goes behind the curtain. While the blinds are lifted up from the stage, Figaro and his betrothed, Susanna, are the first protagonists to meet with the audience. Through magnificent vocalisms they sing their happiness upon the upcoming wedding and their future projects. However, while he his counting inches as to calculate where to put the nuptial bed, Susanna on her part doesn’t want to live in this room as it is too close to the master’s quarters, afraid she would have to bear his frivolous virtue.

The production was fantastic from the beginning until the end. Not one minute had I thought I would be better off elsewhere. I was like a sponge trying to remember every detail, sound, image and rhythm. However, adding to this I can promise you laughter is also part of the emotions the show will inspire you.
A few things stoke me as extraordinary modern, witty and delightful. While the vocals were going on, some of the themes or topics would be winked at by the production. When Figaro cried his love he suspected of being unfaithful, he blamed all women: “Look at them, women, who torture our hearts…” the lights inside the Opera were then turned on, inviting the audience to look at women in the public. Another time during the garden rendez-vous between the count and the countess in disguise, a delicate flower perfume was to be sent in the whole theatre, and the spectator would once more feel as if being part of the show.

The sets were beautifully made and various. I would have gladly stopped time and try to depict it with some aquarelle paint. The décor were all put together as to help the public imagine and feel closer to the story, and in that purpose details were not neglected. Gardens, palace rooms and chambers, everything was superb, as if they were all composed as a painting by Francois Boucher. However, though I don’t despise minimalism at all it is sometimes nicer to see a good set on stage.

My only regret that night was that apart from witnessing the splendor of Mozart’s gift for music and the talent of those performing before me, it would only last the time of the show, and when the lights would fire up again it would all be part of the past, as if it where only a dream. Though what a wonderful dream it was.

by Isaure Cointreau

Semana Santa is a week where Christians commemorate the passion, death and resurrection of Christ. As for being very important days in the Spanish culture with these amazing street processions, it is also a holiday. With a week on their hands without having to go to Uni., what would international students do with their free time? Travel would be a good guess. Therefore with a quick look on the Ryanair website, the tickets were booked in a second for a fair price.

We were three girls, two French and one American, all with one same envy as to relax and discover the secrets of the Baleares. Staying at the Hostel Mimosa in Illetas, we were a 40 mn bus drive from the center of Palma and it was fantastic. Illetas is like a little village of its own on the shore, and has magical little beaches that will make anybody staying in the center of the city mad jealous. Therefore the weekend was about settling in, visiting the city and enjoying the sun by the sea.

The capital of the Island although it is a very touristy destination and an Ibiza kind of look in the summer, it had nothing to do with it as the off-season makes it a wonderful place to be. Culturally there are many things to see. The Cathedral of La Seu is one not to miss as it is as imposing as it is charming, with its incredible gardens and architecture. However to all Mallorcan visitors I would suggest to flee the city as there is so much more.

The Soller Harbor is one of the hotspots, and the transportation that will accommodate you is quite an experience. The little train station Plaza de Espana in Palma will bring you throughout a picturesque drive in a 1900 train to the little town. When arriving at destination, have a litlle walk throughout the village, and a taste of the many typical pastries. Then a tram will be of service to bring you to the port. It is a sight to be seen as you wonder around the streets of the village. My memories are filled with bright colors, sunshine, incredible views of the blue horizon and the perfume of oranges.

To be sure there are many stops one would like to have a go to in this paradisiacal island, though as short trips don’t always allow to do so, priorities are a must. Therefore our second destination was Valdemossa. After a short bus drive throughout the hills and mountains of the inner-grounds of Mallorca we arrived in a very French looking and charming village. Greens are all over the place and as it was then raining, it gave a very intense country side look, through even more enchanting. It is the sort of place you can imagine nature as being a whole and alive creature, filled with beauty, mystery and peace. Others before me had had this impression, and as their illustrious names are engraved to the pace and ambiance of the place, it gains in appeal. Chopin and Georges Sand, Ruben Dario, Jorge Luis Borges, and believe it or not Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones, were fascinated by it and lived there for a while.

Pollenca was our last stop and our motivation was set to go to highest Northern part of the Island. Less typical or less charming the town is more of a resort than anything else. Though being divided in two different entities one can share separate enjoyments. With the old town on the one side which offers great sights and cute little old streets to wonder in, and the modern side as in the harbor, it’ll depend what you are looking for. After enjoying the more cultural and picturesque part of the city, I suggest you ask someone a ride to get to the sea because it is a long walk ahead. When getting there, the next best thing to do is have coffee and dessert in a little café that is set on the water and enjoy for one the view and a good book. Though if the weather permits it you might want to enjoy the sea delights or try kite-surfing as it is really popular there.

How about Semana Santa? It wasn’t Seville’s breathtaking processions though it was nevertheless very impressive. Abby was at first put off by the K.K.K robes and masks though knowing it had nothing to do with that she then enjoyed the ceremony as much as we did. The people that march in the streets in these long costumes are all volunteers making amends for their past sins and showing their devotion to their religion. This marvelous act of faith makes one wonder, Christian or not. Carrying carts filled with candles and showing off either the Virgin Marie or the pain of Christ, the ceremony was very touching. Children accompany them on their route watching out for the wax falling of the candles and giving out candy to other kids watching the assembly. This detail made me smile as it gave to the whole parade a less grave tone, adding a warm and friendly touch to it.

After this we went back to Illetas to enjoy our night at the cocktail bar, talking to the cook of the hostel and having a taste of his fancy salmon. I’ll come back that’s for sure. Mallorca would be a wonderful island to live on, though I would exclude tourist season in it. Speaking with the locals it apparently destroys the charms and looks of the summer holidays and throughout the years of the capital city. However, what a sight to seen! There are so many places to go to, things to see and views to be had from one end of the island to another. “Enchanting” this would be my word to define it.

by Isaure Cointreau

The 13th of May the San Miguel market reopened its doors to the public. After years of refurbishing it has become a gourmet center where gastronomy it top notch. What a fantastic place, it was worth the wait. Not only is it a market but it combines as well the function of a bar and tavern, though all in style.

The Iron architecture of the place make you think of Charlie Chaplin and its Modern Times, however through this wink to an industrial era it apparently was designed as inspired by Les Halles de Paris. Although it relates to the French 1900 market’s style it was revisited as to suit the southern culture and rhythm.

The ceramics that can be found all around the ceiling recall the precious Sevillan azulejos and the variety of products on offer present only the best of Spain. Because the Calor is part of the culture, the fans and water sprays have not been forgotten and that for the very pleasure of its customers. The composition of the building has been well thought through as to prevent from the heat to invade the market, that’ll explain the wide glass composition. Although it does underline the apparent refurbishing of the place the crystalline walls actually add to its charms a little modernity. Therefore like an oasis in the Madrilenian summer everything has been put together to prevent you from melting while shopping or enjoying your wine and tapas.

Have your pick there is everything one would wish for such as oysters, fish, sweets, bread and wine. Everything looks delicious and ready to go. It however has nothing to do with your local Dia as your wallet would say, though you’ll find there wonders. Bringing to you the sea side gustative pleasures and as many kinds of Vermouth you would ever dream of, let’s say it is a little piece of paradise for any mouth to fill. As much variety of cheese a British could ever dream of, as many fantastic breads and pastries that would make any Frenchmen jealous, everything is brought to you on a silver platter.

A few days ago I wanted to try it myself with a group of friends. The center of the market has been arranged as a sitting area, with tables and tall stools, where people can enjoy their drink until midnight. Having a seat we were amazed how the place had chic written all over it. Every architectural and design detail is a pleasure to the eye, and the people all well dressed with poise and smiles give to the market a very soothing ambiance. However be prepared to sip slowly your wine as it can get pricy.

At midnight a bell will ring and a voice will notify you of the closing doors, though no one will actually push you out right away. Hanging out a little longer, we witnessed the cleaning up and the closing of the little stands. At some point, the venders and the waiters were moving from one shop to the other as if bearing gifts. They in fact had put away on a tray some leftovers and were sharing them with the others.

While we were about to leave, the bakery had put a selection of croissants and brioches on the winery stand. Our eyes saw them gleaming in the light and while people were hanging out with the shopkeeper, we stopped by. Chatting a little bit with the group, we found out that they were all good friends and that the exchange of Oysters, sweets and pastries happened often has it would otherwise be wasted, thrown in the trash. Wouldn’t it be terrible to see such delicious things not appreciated by anyone? Seeing that our stomachs were speaking for themselves through our passive leering at the tray, they offered us to take whatever we wanted. Grateful and thrilled to see our wish fulfilled, we left only a half hour later. We were the last customers and even the doors didn’t want to let us out, was that a sign? However we left then and plan to come back pretty soon.

by Isaure Cointreau

People keep asking me the same question when they come to Spain:

-What do you like about it so much?

I guess I never knew what to say but honestly what are the good and bad sides of this place? When thinking about it, the relaxed pace of life is the first idea that pops into my head. As if holidays were around all year, the feel is part of the everyday life. People just take their time to do their thing, what else could explain the siesta and the slow reactions of the shop assistants, the relaxed walk of the crowd down Gran Via and then again the outraging number of bars in Madrid? Spain has its way and to any foreigner, used to a more tensed lifestyle, this comes as a shock. Although all the newcomers aren’t used to this southern rhythm, they accommodate themselves well and pretty fast.

However, it can be seen as very frustrating when the two different visions of life confront each other. Firstly, if people are used to live on a high speed level they’ll find a little cankiness take over them when encountering a slow response to their enquiry. Secondly, if one is in a rush or on a crisis, he’ll just have to cool off or plan ahead. Let this be a lesson to us all as there is no need to panic; the world is not falling apart. Therefore, patience is the key to prevent from any nervous breakdown.

The friendliness and the good mood of people appears as another factor that makes Spain an enjoyable place to live. Think about it, even Madrid shows off a tranquil lifestyle. Comparing it to other capital cities such as Paris or London is an outrage as it is like pointing to another direction; it has nothing to do with the pace of life in these countries. Therefore it feels good to be a Spaniard, even a temporary one.

However, because there is always a flipside, one shouldn’t be surprised by the much less enjoyable edge to the character of these people. Yes, they are loud and that is a fact, but to add a little more to the picture they also have a little tendency towards egocentricism, or should I say excessive pride. Not that they won’t welcome you into their home and gladly show you around, these warm people just like things done their way. Don’t get offended if while walking you happen to get in someone’s way and they just push you away with their predominance. It’s just how things are.

The qualities required to a country for us to fall in love with it are “Good people, good food, good culture and good access”. Well for the most part I guess Spain succeeds into having every single one of these appealing characteristics. People’s warmness is undeniable, but let’s find out about the rest. Referring to culture, I would mean to target the historical heritage and the modern inclination towards Art in the general sense. Spain offers a cosmopolitan grasp of cultures as the Mediterranean civilizations made it a principal destination to invade. Therefore the Moors, the Romans, the Greeks, the Christians have left throughout the centuries an incredible amount of architectural and artistic leftovers from their different regimes. So wherever you will go in Spain you will find a necessary sightseeing tour.

However in our more modern times Spain appears as to have its place next to the main cultural spots such as Paris & New York. Madrid holds every international exhibit such as Bacon, Rembrandt or Max Ernst in its museums or foundations. Bilbao has its own Guggenheim and Barcelona other than its Picasso museum has a wide variety of places that are worth a detour. However the little plus appears to be the access these cultural centers offer. Most of the exhibits are free or of a very reasonable charge. Even if they occur in a variety of places in Spain, they are never more than a few hours of train or bus ahead. Who could want more? The cultural horizon in Spain is endless.

How about food? Internationally renowned it however shows a wide variety in terms of quality and diversity from one end of the country to the other. Because there is something else than the Spanish comfort food known as the famous and trendy tapas, the cardinal points change a Spaniards habits to food although they all cherish their ham. The gourmet side of the Iberian soil appears to be up North around the French border where San Sebastian has more Michelin Stars per inhabitant than anywhere else in the world. Down South the food is more inspired by the Sea side and always accompanied by the strong Rioja Wines and up East however Valencia’s Paella is a wonder. However, the only critic I would make is the emphasis on oil and its outraging quantities in every plate, is it really necessary?

Other than that, if you ask me why I like this place? I’ll just ask you: What is there not to love?

by Jeanne Reidy

I had heard that college students in Spain are in little rush to finish their schooling. Some stay at their university for 6 or 7 years. I guess the cost is not pressuring them to finish as they pay a very small amount for classes and the vast majority live at home which saves on room and board costs.

Still, everyday, I was surprised by the fact that the cafeteria and courtyards were always more crowded than the library and computer labs. The students never seemed to be stressed about homework or tests, which could’ve been thanks to the forgiving curriculum or to the fact that they were not being hounded to finish school by their parents, teachers or loan collectors. Perhaps the difficulty of getting a job in this economy is keeping them enrolled for as long as possible. 

But what happens after the eventual graduation? Due to the limited housing in Madrid, the expense and most of all, tradition, these twenty-somethings are encouraged to live at home. They are not being forced into the work world nor do they need to as they have very little to pay for on their own with their rent, food and maybe more are paid for by their parents. So, from my understanding, most young madrileños do just that. They live at home, help out around the house and put off the work world a bit longer. Most Spanish children, if fact, live at home until close to the age of 30 or marriage- whichever comes first.

My señora’s daughter amazed me. She was an unemployed college-educated 27 year-old living with her mother. Now I understand the job market is tough right now and Spain’s unemployment rate is brutal- about double that of the United States’. However, she never seemed to be looking too hard for a job either. She seemed content living at home having her meals and laundry taken care of by her willing mother.

I always compare her to my sister of the same age. Since graduating from college, my sister has fulfilled a two year contract with a respected law firm in New York City, where she paid her own over-the-top Manhattan rent, moved back to Chicago for Law School for which she is currently searching for a job to pay for her looming loans. Now, I don’t say this to look down upon the madrileño and pat the American on the back. I just find the cultural differences fascinating. And who is to say which way is the “right” way.

One of my teachers at the Complutense said in regards to this topic that even though Spanish parents complain about their older children living at home, “we have created this problem”. The “problem” being that the kids live at home much longer than usual. He explained that parents actually prefer it so they can monitor their children and not worry about them living on their own. I understand this point of view, but I doubt most American parents would feel the same way.

I recently read an article in El Pais, a Spanish newspaper, that identified this age group, ages 18 to 34, as “Generación Ni-Ni”, a generation that “ni trabaja ni estudia”, neither works nor studies. Basically, the article explained that with a growing number of graduates who aren’t finding jobs, a new generation has been born. At the same time, this is a group of people who have grown up in a time that has always experienced and believed in continuous economic development, until lately. They are used to living conditions, with their parents, that are constantly improving and don’t feel like they should experience anything less. In other words, if never having lived and paid for their own apartments, they don’t understand living any other way than in their parent’s established homes.

The wanna-be Spanish side of me wishes she could live in her parent’s home forever with meal and laundry service. The “hardworking American” side of me knows that until I live and pay for my own starter apartment, I won’t understand what it takes to pay for and build a home like that of my parents.

Maybe it is the sense of freedom the young Americans gain when they move away from home for the first time. I mean, young Spaniards can drink from an early age and stay out until 6 a.m. without a single question from their parents. So why would they want to move out? They have all the freedom they need already, plus meals and laundry service on top of that.

As much as I think I’ve adapted to the Spanish culture, I don’t think I will ever understand this phenomenon. I can respect the reasoning behind it but I think I speak for most Americans my age, I hope not to be living at home at the age of 30. No offense, Mom and Dad.

by Mary Doman

After a month in Madrid, I had expected the late nights, alcohol, miles of walking, olive-oil overdoses, and boiling heat to get to me, somehow. A little tummy ache? A sunburned shoulder? The slightest hangover? Though none (miraculously) of these symptoms have crept up on me yet, I still await the effects of my extreme lifestyle change to pounce on my poor body soon. When the time comes, though, I won’t be afraid. I know there are pharmacies waiting for me at any hour, on any street.

They’re everywhere. Almost every corner in this city has a bright green cross on it, glowing 24 hours a day: “farmacia.” Why do Spanish people need so many pharmacies? I wondered. The massive number of cervercerias is an excess I don’t mind a bit. The neverending tiendas de alimentación are curious, but convenient for chocolate, candy, and soda cravings. But pharmacies? What can explain this over-abundance? I took some down time to really focus on the dilemma (tears, empty coffee cups, chocolate bars…you know how these things work themselves out) and came up with a few ideas.

Some things I’d read a while back came to mind. When I was getting ready to leave for Spain, I thought I’d do a bit of research on the healthcare system in Spain, just in case something happened. I took a big sigh of relief because I realized that drugs are quite easy to get in this country.

Drugs! Without a prescription! And cheap, too. MadridMan writes about how his $20 prescription in the states only costs him 2.40€ in Madrid! What a steal. I also read about a lady who used the same British prescription slip in Spanish pharmacies for over a year. When she forgot the prescription, she just asked for Prozac or showed the pharmacist an empty pill box. Ta-dah! Antidepressants at every corner, no hassles. Of course now, the woman reports that actually doesn’t need her Prozac anymore because sunny Spain keeps her happier than the grey days of England ever did!

Another aspect of the Spanish government’s unique drug regulation system are the requirements for pharmacy store hours. At least one pharmacy must be open at all hours within a certain catchment area and, while some stores never open at night, there are plenty of farmacias that rotate an all-night service. So I suppose in a large city like Madrid, keeping a pharmacy on every corner is a pretty sure way to make sure all the residents, and especially all the pharmacists, get a healthy night’s sleep.

But simple regulations and drug availablity couldn’t be all that was keeping so many pharmacies in business, was it? I thought I would go to a farmacia myself to look for more clues. Taking a 30-second detour on my walk to work, I stepped into a farmacia and had a peek. Here I realized that the Spanish concept of “farmacia” doesn’t directly translate into the English word and American concept of “pharmacy.” Instead waiting seats and long lines, there was 90s music and aisles stuffed with snacks and drinks. The amount of creams, lotions, hair and dental products was impressive. The pharmacist was friendly and customers purchased everything from bottled waters to birth control.

Since the pharmacies have to be open so late and have so much competition, it’s no wonder that they pack their shelves with goodies and snacks, play fun music, and try to appear as appealing as possible. I almost wish my Spanish lifestyle would hurry up and take its toll on me so I could go for a chat with my friendly pharmacist! Not really, but if it rains I might drop in for some Prozac.