by Stuart Yochem

As an avid scuba diver, I didn’t expect that Spain would be considered a destination for other divers like me. It seems that I couldn’t have been more wrong! For the past days, I’ve been researching different dive sites along the Spanish coast, and the variety and multitude of caves, wrecks, and reefs is astounding. So I began to map out a Mediterranean diving trip (which I shall take sometime in the future when my bank account is a little more promising), using Spain as my go to country. For those of you pondering summer plans, sinking into the Med for two weeks may turn out to be your most thrilling adventure yet!

In order to make the trip more orderly and less costly, I decided to start this adventure off the Southern coast, in the Canary Islands.

Location 1: La Palma, 2 days

The greatest thing about the Canaries is that although they are an island chain, each island has its own, distinct personality.

La Palma, one of the westernmost islands of the seven Canaries, is a volcanic ocean island and can also be referred to as la Isla de las Palmas (the island of palms). Destination #1: The Crosses of Malpique, located at the island’s southernmost tip. In 1570, 40 Jesuit missionaries came to Puerto Tazacorte with their ship and though they were hopeful to evade turmoil, French Pirates captured and killed all 40 on board. In 2000, 40 stone crosses were lowered into the sea in memory of the missionaries, and the reef was named for them. Natives believe that the crosses could soothe the ocean. Maybe this dive will leave you feeling soothed as well…

After taking in a bit of history under the sea style, take advantage of your time left on the island, acclaimed by many for its unspoiled, natural beauty and for its lack of tourism. Take a walk through the incredibly lush Caldera de Taburiente National Park. Afterwards, you should check out the Roque de los Muchachos Astrophysics Observatory, which contains international telescopes spanning 2 km!

Location 2: Tenerife, 4 days

Upon arrival to Tenerife, it’s most likely that you won’t get in a full day of diving so better to explore the island. Tenerife is the largest of the Canaries and boasts both the highest mountain in Spain, El Teide, as well as the world’s 3rd largest volcano!

On your second day, let the diving begin. For those of you who suffer from claustrophobia or are afraid of the dark (which under the sea can bring out a whole new dimension of darkness, as I learned in a past experience that will remain unmentioned), you may want to skip these dives. Yes folks, cave diving. Ali Barbars Cave, located 15 minutes outside of the harbor, will be a feast for the senses. The entrance to the cave is covered in black coral taking on the appearance of Christmas tree branches. Once inside, torches on, spectacular colors will jump out at you. As you exit, take a look behind you as a diver with a sense of humor has set up a nativity scene at the back of the cave.

Next stop, Palm Mar Caves, where a complete wall of moray eel, sedentary organisms, lobster and barracuda swim in and out of dark crevices. Also, catch a glimpse at the cave’s Jacques Cousteau statue, located next to the sea wall. Finish out your day with stops at dive sites The Steps and Shark Cave.

Jacques Cousteau

Day three will be filled with reefs, fish, reefs, and more fish. Radazul, Tenerife is home to three thrilling sites: Devil’s Reef, the Wall and Grouper’s Cave. The Wall, located on a vertical sea wall, (hints the name, “the wall”) is a favorite among scuba lovers. Close by is Grouper’s Cave, where at the end of the reef is a cave inhabiting a large, friendly Grouper. After befriending this famous fish, boat on over to La Nea Beach where you can spend the rest of your day relaxing with a cocktail.

Your final morning will take you to Stingray Bay, where you will find a sunken fishing boat, loads of friendly rays and if you’re lucky, turtles! On your way to the next site, Carbonero, keep your eyes open for jumping dolphins. Finish your day at the nearby Las Teresitas beach and reminisce all of your underwater escapades.  At this point, you and Sebastian the crab will most certainly be on the same page… life IS better under the sea.

Location 3: Fuerteventura, 1 day

Before bidding farewell to the Canaries, make one last stop at Fuerteventura. Veril Grande is a small reef where creatures, including a meadow of garden eels as well as stingray, barracuda and angel shark lurk in the sand. Next stops the Pyramid and the Labrynth. The Labrynth has a wild seascape that always surprises visitors as well as a plethora of sea life. If you’re lucky, you may spot a hammerhead. Last dive of the day, El Portal, where conditions are ideal for larger fish such as Tuna and sometimes even Whale Shark! What a way to end your day.

Location 4: Marbella and San Pedro de Alcántara, Costa del Sur, 2 days

Marbella, situated within the Malaga province, is known for its ritzy appeal and glamorous residents, which have included Sean Connery, Antonio Banderas and Joan Collins. This all began in 1940, when Prince Max Egon zu Hohenlohe-Langenburg and his heir Alfonso de Hohenlohe were experiencing car troubles in the town. What a hassle it must have been to have a broken down Rolls Royce in an undiscovered island paradise. Alfonso fell in love with the beautiful town and began to market it as a tourist destination, magnetizing the rich and famous. Marbella’s lap of luxury is not confined to its town, but extends into the ocean where underwater life will be equally if not more exciting than marveling at celebrities.

Start off the morning at Marbella Towers. Close to the towers is Barco Antiguo (antique ship), where a ship, called the Galeon by natives, takes up a whopping 70 meters! It seems that the majority of Coata del Sol’s underwater creatures prefer to spend their time here. Finish your day at the Marbella Wrecks and then head back to shore for a night in this posh paradise.

Your second day will take you to the town of San Pedro de Alcántara. Placer de las Bovedas, listed as one of the top ten dive sites in Spain, is a gigantic reef, 1 km long and 500 meters wide where deep dives are guaranteed. Fishing is rare in this area, so chances that you will see bigger fish are very likely! Bovedas is very rocky and has beautiful canons, valleys, walls and overhanging rocks leaving divers wanting more. One thing to be cautious about is the current- the reef is located in the open sea, very close to the Strait of Gibraltar and the Atlantic Ocean.

Location 5: Las Islas Hormigas, 1 day

On your way up the Spanish coast, spend a day at las Islas Hormigas, located just off the coast near Cabo de Palos. The islands are known for having the best-preserved and most varied marine reserves. Here, you can find old wrecks from 1886 to 1903, submerged mountains, and diverse sea life. The reserve itself has four dive sites, Bajo de Testa, Piles 1, Piles 2 and Bajo de Dentro (which has a large, swim through cavern). All are sure to impress!

Location 6: Mallorca, 4 days

Hopefully, this last designated stop won’t leave you feeling too disappointed. This island getaway, where an abundance of renowned Spaniards have made and continue to make their homes, is located in the Balearic Islands. The astounding sights, the beautiful beaches, the delectable cuisine and the great nightlife will try its best to distract you. Remember why you came though! The diving in Mallorca will surely match if not outdo the pork loin.

On day one, head to Santa Ponsa, where off the coast you will come across islands Malgrats and El Toro. Both islands are surrounded by marine reserves with a spectacular array of barracuda, iridescent blue fish, goatfish and seabream, whose scales catch the sunlight as they feast on sea urchins. The structure of the seabed and surrounding sea walls is out of this world and may well convince you that nature had a keen architectural force behind it.

On day two, The Madonna Cave will be waiting for you. The dive starts as you descend into the cave’s mouth. At the bottom of the cave, torches on, you will find a Madonna statue. There is plenty of room to swim around the cave as well as two air pockets if you’re in need of a break. You may come across a conger eel, a resident of the cave who is spotted on certain occasions. As you exit, be sure to catch a glimpse at the lit up cavern behind you, and just before the cave ceiling, you will notice a hazy shimmer that signifies where fresh and salt water meets.

These last two days will be yours to use as you please. Mallorca is a fantastic place to spend time, above or under water!

As your trip comes to an end, keep all of your encounters in mind… you had a religious experience in underwater La Palma, enjoyed a lovely Christmas, made friends with a grouper and met a world renowned explorer in Tenerife, lived in the lap of luxury in Marbella, came across some historical ship wrecks in Las Islas Hormigas, plus you saw the Madonna and the best of the Med’s underwater designs in Mallorca. What a whirlwind. I think that Mr. Cousteau summed it up pretty nicely…  ”The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.”

by Mary Doman

I’ve been in Spain for almost a month now, and I think I’ve eaten more ham in these four weeks than I have in my other 21 years of living. I’m still nowhere near the average 5 kg (11.02 lbs) of ham the average Spaniard eats per year, but my frequent encounters with jámon have finally led me to question the curious little meat that manages to slip itself into my every meal.

There’s no such thing as plain ham in Spain. Every slice has a particular name that hints at a rich history- such as where the pig is from, what the pig ate, and the breed of pig. The big difference in Spanish ham is whether the meat comes from a white pig or a black pig. Apparently, Jámon Iberico (black) soars high above Jámon Serrano (white) in both taste and price.

I can’t write about taste from first-hand experience, because my ham palette is still quite inexperienced. To me, it’s all tasted the same so far, but I can say that sometimes I notice more fat on my meat than other times. And also that no matter what type of ham I eat, little strings of it get stuck between my teeth for hours. But anyways-

Serrano ham is leaner and should taste saltier than Iberian ham. This is because Jámon Serrano has a minimum curing period of 8 months (though higher grades can last over 14 months), whereas Iberian ham cures for a year to two years. Also, the fat of Serrano ham is on the outside of the meat and has a yellowish tint, as opposed to the marbleized fat patterns of Jámon Iberico.

Yes, I am describing the fat. Fat in Spain is something to be put in your mouth, rather than the side of your plate. Although I still maintain my American ways, it’s impossible to eat ham here without a good few bites of white. Mmmm.

When it comes to Jámon Iberico, grade is more distinguished. The most important factor in quality of Iberian ham is the diet of the pig. Unlike American pigs (whose diets are mostly corn and peanuts), Spanish pigs eat cereals and acorns. And the more acorns, the better! The king of all ham in Spain is Jámon Iberico de Bellota (Bellota = acorn). These pigs are free-range, with a steady diet of yummy acorns. Following Bellota, we have a close second in quality with Jámon Iberico de Recebo. These pigs are fed a combination of acorns and cereals, and are compound-fed. And taking third and fourth are Jámon Iberico de Campo and Jámon Serrano.

It’s up to you to decide which kind of ham- Serrano or Iberico- that you want between your baguette. I know that this blog has convinced me, at least, to throw in the extra euro to try Jámon Iberico. If my words, however, haven’t convinced you, maybe this ham connoisseur’s will:

“Iberian hams have generous amounts of marbling fat. They are very flavourful, with intense, persistent aromas, faintly salty – almost sweet – and impart notes of curing, burnt sugar, nuts and the ageing room.”

I know I’ve got to eat a lot more ham before I could muster up such eloquent poesía de jámon. If you’re feeling the same way, take a trip to one of Madrid’s famous ham shops (El Museo del Jámon or El Palacio del Jámon) and start your journey!

by Isaure Cointreau

It was a friend’s quad-centennial birthday and Portugal’s Praia das Macas would be were the celebration would take place. After many hesitations I finally got my ticket. As this would be my first time in Spain’s neighborly country, I planned the trip so I would be as much as a tourist as I could.

First stop, Lisbon. After a never ending bus ride, I finally arrived at 6:30am only to discover that there was a time change, as Madrid looks one hour ahead. Arriving at the hostel, I rang the bell only to be left unanswered. Spirits high, I decided to walk around to get my first impressions of the Portuguese capital. The dim light of the first rays of sun appeared as a quiet awakening of the city. Though as the streets were still empty, it felt as if I was the only witness of the city’s gleaming wonders.

Strolling around Lisbon’s center, upon the Praca da Pedro V and its surroundings, the light breeze of the coast drew me to the Sea. Not expecting it would be this close, I was astonished by the beautiful Praca do Comercio and the marvelous blue horizon. Turning my back on the view and facing the city, I had on my right the castle and the cathedral, and on my left, the imposing ponte 25 de Abril, the mosteiro dos Jeronimos and the Belem tower. Where to start?

After a typical Portuguese luncheon crowned by the much needed dose of caffeine, I left my bag at the Hostel and was ready to go. Lisboa is apparently a city of light. The buildings and houses are each painted in a different color going from pink to yellow, blue to green. The little streets are outnumbered for the very pleasure of the tourist in need of shade. However, the sunshine is never far away and creates through shadows and reflection a soothing and warm ambiance. Walking around, getting lost at some point because my eyes were always looking up for the numerous hidden details of the different boroughs, there was always a kind Portuguese to help with the way. Although I didn’t understand them and they didn’t understand me, they would try and you would have seen us  communicating comically with gestures and simple words.

Going from one end of the city to another, I realized it was huge. Comparing it to Madrid where you can walk about everywhere, it had nothing to do with it. I have always felt that the more you walk in a city the more you get in touch with its essence, going from one borough to another and changing sceneries, though at some point it was not possible to do so. There was to much to cover and so little time and with the sun pounding, it would have been suicidal. However in one day, I pretty much covered the grounds and got the feel of the city enough to fall in love with it.

My favorite neighborhoods were the Bairro Alto and Chiado. Lively and arty for one, chic and chilled for the other, they both are the best districts to hang out, shop, have a meal, a drink or simply go out. People there are young and always on the go, however don’t forget that as the southern weather is also part of the culture, all rules apply. Wherever you go you won’t get to see a soul until 5pm, and if you do then you are either facing a tourist or you are hanging out in the touristy places.

The next day I left the Kitsch Hostel, and its outraging colorful Hindu-Pop-Hippy living room. After a last little walk, I took the train for Sintra for a little hour trip. This village embodies the perfect harmony between nature and cultural heritage. Classified as a UNESCO World heritage site, its cultural wonders and beautiful landscapes have become a must see for any Portugal visitor. The town is central to many castles and palaces, gardens and parks that would amaze any eye. The Castelo de la Pena is one of them and although it is quite a hike to visit the whole perimeter it occupies, it was worth it as it was an enchantment from the beginning until the end of the visit. After an exhausting race against the clock, I finally made it to the bus after having seen it all.

After a challenging sign talking and map pointing discussion with the locals, I finally arrived to my last destination. Praia das Macas stands for the “apple beach”, though I wonder why as I haven’t spotted any of those around there. The golden sand, the clear sea and the strong waves, this place is a surfing paradise. While some friends were tasting the water on their boards, the others and I enjoyed a breathtaking sunset that would only announce the beginning of the evening. The now 25 year old would be the main character of an unforgettable night starting with delicate seafood and ending feet in the sand.

Portugal was a breathtaking experience. However, my trip was only an introduction to the wonders its history, heritage and traditions have spread out throughout its land. What will it be next time? Fatima and its incredible shrine, Obidos and its medieval vibe, Porto and its many cultural delights, these and many more are part of the country’s highlights. Therefore Portugal awaits, what are we waiting for?