
Peter Moore remembers going to the cinema in Tanzania
Batman
Man should try everything once, apart from incest and Morris dancing. Well, this is the point of view I was dragged around to, when someone suggested that we go and watch ‘Batman’.
I am not a particularly fierce critic of Batman. In fact I distinctly remember wearing my y-fronts outside of my trousers during my early years in a vain attempt to gain superpowers myself. The problem was that we were in a dustbowl Tanzanian safari city that had only recently unveiled its first sit down toilet.
But, located in the bustling uptown area (possibly not far for the aforementioned toilet) had been located a cinema promising to show ‘Batman Begins’ - 6pm. There were seven of us, and we came to the consensus that we would abandon the current evening plan (bottle of beer - bottle of beer - bolognaise pizza - beer) and instead go and watch the film.
Gorbechov’s Taxi
I wasn’t quite sure was to expect, I imagined that it might be cheaper than £6.50 but I conceded that you might not be able to buy popcorn in two different sizes. Once we had bounced down the street in our Mercedes (which I fancied at some point during the early 1980s may have belonged to someone from the Gorbechov administration) it transpired that I was right. Arriving at the cinema a man popped out from behind a table and promptly charged us 1,500 Tanzanian Shillings (70p) each whilst greeting us with a generous yellow-teethed smile.
The first thing that struck me as we passed through the double doors was that the room was big; the screen was dwarfing us from a distance of 30m and I immediately began to feel like a post-op Mike TV. But before I could begin to comprehend fully the size of the screen, the smell arrived. It was as if this geographical area had been for centuries a favoured urinal for a local herd of stubborn elephants, and they would be damned if they were going to change their habits merely because a cinema had been constructed there.
I struggled on through the ammonia-thick air, my eyes watering by now in the dark, sitting down with a clunk on a British Rail era wooden seat. Batman had already begun. It was quite difficult to see what was happening due to the fact that the film had been expanded to fill the enormous screen (approx. five times normal size), at first glance Michael Caine looked as if he had been inflated by Harry Potter.
Hakuna Matata
Alongside us in the cinema was a man sitting alone what seemed a few hundred meters in front of us. He was straining his head in odd directions and it soon became apparent that he was having the same difficulty in hearing anything that I was. Two small speakers were located at either end of the room and I am pretty sure to say that at least one of them must have been inhabited by a woodpecker. Years of huffing and puffing had seemingly burnt out these poor, small speakers and no matter in which direction I or my friend in front tilted our heads, we could barely make out what (the forty foot wide) Michael Caine was saying.
But, using the ethic of ‘Hakuna Matata’ that I had been building up during the past several weeks, I thought that all would be well due to the film being subtitled in English. Fantastic. Or not. It soon became evident that the translator was a) Of a similar level of English than I am of Welsh or b) On LSD. This fact did take a small amount of time to become apparent, but when the young (but seemingly bloated) Batman was audibly told by one of his benefactors ‘Good news’, the titles at the bottom of the screen read ‘Berghausen will suffer.’
I was by now getting very confused. Staring at the bloated screen and trying to decipher the obviously coded subtitles: who was this Berghausen fellow? For five minutes we sat hearing subtitles that resembled a jumble sale of the English language, such as; ‘Bring cake fast’, and ‘hope forgets carrots’.
Not worth it
It was at this point a good twelve minutes through that the audible language changed. Of course no one realised this immediately as the subtitles continued to whir along eccentrically: ‘News of dangerous cement’ etc. But after a group meeting and some hard listening we determined that the language had changed: Russian?
Our suspicions were confirmed when the fellow in front, jumped up and made for the door. We followed in defeat, only to find when we got there the yellow toothed attendant employing the same persistence we had become used to with the souvenir peddlers outside.
‘No worries, sorry man’, he kept repeating, shepherding us back towards our seats, determined for us to enjoy a complete film. ‘Bad copy’, he added shrugging his shoulders.
It was then that ‘War of the Worlds’ began. Unfortunately by this time the front two speakers had shorted, and the gentleman in front of us (who had also been escorted back to his seat) had burst into fits of laughter, which didn’t particularly add to the atmosphere. This time I reasoned the language was more Germanic and as the subtitles appeared it was for the first time that they read faultless English: ‘Sometimes it is just not worth it.’